I thought you might like a method that I have played on over 100,000 rolls and have ALWAYS won with it! A few words of caution:
1) You need to bet large amounts of money since you will win just 5 units for every 10 hours of play.
2) You will go days without winning. I'm sure there are many disbeliveers, but I will reveal a method of play that has NEVER lost:
THE TIME TO BET: Wait for 4 shooters to 7-out in a row (this means 3 shooters 7-out in a row with the first shooter perhaps having a 7-out after making a point). 7-11 and 2,3,12 do NOT count. What I am looking for is 4 shooters in a row to 7-out without making a point.
Example:
Shooter 1: 4-4; 10-10; 5-5; 6-6; 8-8; 6-6; 9-7
Shooter 2: 5-7
Shooter 3: 4-7
Shooter 4: 8-7
Notice that although three shooters in a row 7-out the fact that the first shooter made 6 passes in a row before losing is not relevant.
THE PLAY: After four 7-outs in a row without a point being made you place $50 on pass and $50 on don't at the SAME time. Then, when a point is made, lay the odds on the don't ($60). You quit when 2 consecutive points have been made (remember that 7-11 won't hurt you). 12 (or 2, whichever is the barred number) doesn't count as a loss. Once two consecutive points have been made, wait for four 7-outs in a row (the same as in the beginning) before playing again. You can keep changing tables and casinos to find this.
SOME ADDITIONAL POINTS: (1) Never increase or decrease your wager. Of course you will lay different odds for different numbers (6-8: $60 to get $50, 5-9: $60 to get $40 and 4-10 $60 to get $30). This strategy is a "flat" method of betting. You will never be more than 40 units behind! In this example a unit is $60. To be safe you should have a bankroll of 50 times $60, or $3,000. Of course, your starting bet can be much lower, and the bankroll will be lower. Personally, I can recall being 20 units or so behind in 10-12 cases. (2) Expect to be behind most of the time as it will sometimes take DAYS or in a rare case a week or so until you make up your losses. (3) Playing in the morning and at slow tables is advisable as the waiting is the big problem with this method. In-between bets wager minimum bets on the pass line and sit tight. 4) Make sure you make "large" wagers since you will average +1 unit for every 2 hours played. 5) Playing at triple odds tables is best. For example, you can wager LESS on the come-out and still put the same amount up. At a single odds table I would have to put up $50 on pass and don't pass to lay the $60 on 6-8; at a double odds table I could put up $25 on pass and don't pass to lay $60 and on a triple odds I could put down $12.50 to lay $60. The key is this: When the dreaded 2 (in Reno) or 12 (in Las Vegas) comes up, I will lose my Pass line, but "push" on the don't. This is the house's "vig." The double and triple odds keep these losses to a minimum. I would calculate the amount of bankroll needed as $60 x 50= $3,000. However, I feel that $2,000 is "safe" almost all of the time. Thus I will have $2,000 divided by $60 which is about 33 bets. It very unlikely I will need this much of a bankroll, although I feel better when I have a 40-50 bet margin.
I often will quit after any 2 points have been made-- whether they have been consecutive or not.
Example: 1: 5-5, 4-7, 6-6-- stop. Another way to say it is that when the majority of decisions have been points, I usually stop.
Example: 2: 9-7 8-7 6-7 4-7 5-5 6-7 4-7 10-7 8-8. Here I would continue playing since the majority have been 7-outs.
Example: 3: 5-5, 4-7, 6-6. Here I will often stop since 2 out of 3 have been points.
Does this point matter? It might be important. For sure I don't want to get into a "back-and-forth" cycle: 4-7, 5-5, 6-7, 8-8, 4-7, 9-9 since I will lose more when I lay bets.
On the other hand, I don't want to lose out when the dice are "relatively cold"
(Example: 6-7, 4-7, 8-7, 4-4, 9-7, 9-7, 4-7, 8-7, 5-5).
So somehow we need to say:
1) If two consecutive points have been made, I will CERTAINLY quit.
2) If the majority of the decisions are Pass (except for the first one), then I will quit, or
3) If they go "back-and-forth" more than once, then I will quit.
The reason that I don't play this winning method very often is the energy it requires to play it. Certainly, you need to play at least 5-6 hours a day to make it work. Perhaps someone who is younger or has more energy can keep up the pace that is needed. But I can assure you that I NEVER lost with this method. No matter what the critics might say, no matter what these computer simulators might say, my method *does* work!
Solveit@ix.netcom.com